I often visited Essex as a child. My family took summer day trips to the contrasting seaside resorts of Clacton-on-Sea and Frinton-on-Sea. Frinton was considered the posher of the two as it did not have the pub, pier or arcades that attract crowds to Clacton. It was only when to the county as an adult that I learned about its collection of mysterious-sounding islands.
Essex, a county that is subject to stereotypes and misunderstanding, offers countryside, market towns, 350 miles of coastline and around 30 islands – more than any other county in England. And, while Clacton-on-Sea may languish at the bottom of a ranking of the UK’s seaside towns, according to consumer champions, Which?, it is just half an hour’s drive from the nature of Horsey island.
Indeed, the marshy landscapes and nature reserves of Essex’s islets are perfect for a break over an autumn or winter weekend.
I recently visited three of Essex’s 30-plus islands. Here is what I found, with details on how to each and where to stay.
Horsey Island
Getting there: If travelling by train, head to Frinton-on-Sea railway station (served by Greater Anglia). From there, walk five minutes to The Oaks. Then take the 98 bus to Devereux Farm, from which it is around seven minutes’ walk to Island Lane. Head to the causeway, which leads to Horsey Island at low tide.
Staying there: Horsey Cottage is a three-bedroom, dog-friendly holiday home. Three-night minimum stay from £540, holidaylettings.co.uk
This 300-acre private island is part of the Hamford Water National Nature Reserve. Joe, who owns the island with his wife Vicky, collected my daughter and I from the road that leads to the causeway. We passed waders such avocets and knots as we drove across the stark marshland in Joe’s jeep.
The only accommodation is a 19th-century brick cottage, with rural views, books and a wood-burning stove. Treats include fresh flowers and homemade cake. In winter, Horsey is a place for waterproofs and wellies. Walk to the beach and spot the migratory species that flock here as the weather cools, such as brent geese, and seals.
Part of Arthur Ransome’s Secret Water, the eighth book of his Swallows and Amazons series, was set in Horsey. It is a place where children and adults can get back to nature, and forget about the demands of technology (although a smartphone may prove useful for photographing rare birds). You must gain permission to walk on the island.
Mersea Island
Getting there: Rail travellers should head to Colchester railway station (served by Greater Anglia), then take the 87 bus to Mersea
Staying there: The White Hart Inn has six rooms, each decorated with Sanderson and Zoffany. From £150 a night on a bed and breakfast basis, whitehartinnmersea.co.uk
Accessed across the Strood, subject to the tidal timetable, Mersea is perhaps best known for its oysters and pastel-painted beach huts. It is also Britain’s most easterly inhabited island. The island is divided into two halves. East Mersea is quieter and home to Cudmore Grove Country Park where I walked past crumbling cliffs along a sandy sweep of beach backed by tufty seagrass.
You can stroll along the coast for an hour or so, or drive for 10 minutes, to livelier West Mersea. Here, you will find cafes, shops and a church. Opposite the church, The White Hart Inn has transformed from a rustic pub to a restaurant with rooms.
In its restaurant, I sampled Native and Rock oysters and Cromer crab. Next, I strolled along the boat-lined seafront where the Company Shed seafood shack draws diners-in-the-know. They sit elbow-to-elbow in the wooden hut to eat seafood platters.
Osea Island
Getting there: The nearest railway station is Witham, from which it takes around 35 minutes to reach Osea by taxi. Once booked, guests are sent directions and an access code.
Staying there: Hamptons-style East Village cottages have Victorian-style bathrooms and living areas with a décor of wicker and clubby leather. Two nights minimum stay from £720, oseaisland.co.uk
The first time I drove onto Osea, a private island just off the coast of Maldon, it was October. Its saltwater estuary and ancient trees gave it a stark beauty. It is reached via a crater-like causeway, which was built by the Romans and snakes across the mud flats.
It is easy to see why location scouts chose Osea as the setting for folk horror series The Third Day, which starred Jude Law and Naomie Harris, and why Olly Murs got married on the island.
Osea is owned by music producer Nigel Frieda and has a recording studio. Rhianna is among the artists to have made music here.
You can only enter with a code, which adds to the air of mystery, and privacy. However, once in the island, there’s a village-like hub of old clapboard and Victorian buildings, apartments and a gym and an events space called the Puffin Pub.
Canary yellow bikes are free to use. I cycled to the causeway at the end of the day to see it submerged by water. I dipped in the murky estuary after walking easterly around the island. My soundtrack was the chatter of warblers and widgeons as I passed a second world war pillbox jutting out of the windswept grasses. As I left the island, a little egret signalled my exit.
More information: visitessex.com
